We make a polycarbonate greenhouse ourselves

 We make a polycarbonate greenhouse ourselves


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A polycarbonate greenhouse is currently considered one of the most durable and reliable, due to the high quality of this material and its thermal insulation properties. Such greenhouses are not built for one season, therefore, with good heating and lighting, you can grow your favorite vegetables, berries, herbs and even ornamental plants throughout the year. Now we will see how to build a greenhouse made of cellular polycarbonate with our own hands.

Greenhouse made of polycarbonate - the pros and cons of the material: construction device

Of all existing building and facing materials, cellular polycarbonate is considered one of the most demanded. It is a product made of two-layer plastic sheets of different thicknesses. For the construction of greenhouses, sheets are usually used 6x2.1 meters (thickness 4.5 mm).

Cellular polycarbonate for greenhouse construction

The advantages of polycarbonate:

  • Strength. Polycarbonate can withstand heavy loads and resist mechanical stress. Its strength is 200 times that of glass.
  • Light transmission. This material can transmit up to 90% of the scattered sunlight required for the planted seedlings. At the same time, it protects plants from the harmful effects of UV rays.
  • Thermal conductivity. Polycarbonate sheets have excellent thermal insulation properties, which is very important for a stationary greenhouse.
  • Resistant to temperature extremes. Withstands temperatures from -40 to + 60 ° C.
  • The rigidity of the structure. Polycarbonate has internal ribs that provide the necessary strength and at the same time this material is easy and simple to bend.
  • Ease. Polycarbonate sheets are light enough, so when building a greenhouse, there is no need to fill in a powerful deep foundation and use heavy materials to assemble the frame.
  • Ease of processing. Polycarbonate is easily cut with an ordinary construction knife and quickly drilled with a drill.
  • Low weight. Polycarbonate is several times lighter than glass, which greatly simplifies the process of transportation and installation of the structure.
  • Ease of maintenance. Since polycarbonate has a dust-repellent surface, you can remove dirt with ordinary water.
  • Fire resistance. When ignited, the material simply begins to melt.

Disadvantages of cellular polycarbonate

  • Low resistance to physical stress. The surface of the sheets can be easily scratched and the top protective layer can be damaged.
  • It can expand under the influence of high temperatures, therefore, this fact must be taken into account when installing sheets on the frame of a greenhouse or greenhouse. You just need to leave a gap of a few millimeters between the sheets.
  • Over time, polycarbonate turns yellow (burns out) and this happens under the influence of sunlight.

Note to the masters. Many people think that polycarbonate is less durable than glass. Over time, dirt, dust and water gets inside the "honeycomb", which cause the appearance of dark streaks, growth of fungus, algae and mold. The material loses its transparency. In order to prevent this from happening, it is necessary to carefully seal up all joints, holes and attachment points of sheets to the greenhouse structure. This can be done using silicone sealant and aluminum tape.

Types of greenhouses made of cellular polycarbonate

By the type of location on the ground, greenhouses can be aboveground and in-depth.

  1. Recessed structures retain heat better and longer and do not require a lot of fuel or electricity to heat them. Such greenhouses represent a trench of a certain size, which has an upper wooden, metal, brick or reinforced concrete strapping. But since the thermal conductivity of all the listed materials except wood is too high, greenhouses made of these materials will not be able to maintain the required temperature inside the structure for a long time, but will, on the contrary, act as conductors of cold. Recessed greenhouses can have a pitched, gable or arched roof.

    Recessed greenhouse with a gable roof

- Single-pitched structures are called "Russian greenhouses".

- Gable "Belgian" are intended for growing tall plants.

  1. Aboveground structures are also called portable. The humus in them is located at the bottom of the box, and the soil is on top. When the fertilizer is completely rotted, the soil crumbles and the contents of the greenhouse must be changed. Above ground greenhouses are much colder than deep ones, so they cannot keep warm in the first months of spring, given our climate. But they can be used at the end of May to protect seedlings from the cold or to grow early vegetables and greens. Typically, polycarbonate greenhouses are built on the ground type, but if necessary, you can build a recessed version with an arched cover.

    Above ground polycarbonate greenhouse

  2. Stationary greenhouses are available with a pitched, gable and arched roof. Installed on various types of foundations: tape, timber, stone or brick. Such structures require an additional heating and lighting system when used in the cold season.

    Stationary greenhouse made of polycarbonate on a strip foundation

Gallery: greenhouse designs using polycarbonate

Preparation for construction: drawings, internal space arrangement, dimensions

Before starting the construction of the greenhouse, it is necessary to determine its exact dimensions and choose the type of foundation. When drawing up a drawing or diagram, it must be borne in mind that an ordinary polycarbonate sheet is produced in a size of 2.1x6 meters, since this will help in the future to avoid trimming the excess profile and the frame covering itself.

With this size of material, we can get:

Four sheets - 2.1x1.5 meters, from which you can build a greenhouse measuring 4.2x1.5; 2.1x1.5; 2.1x6 meters. There are a large number of options depending on the size of the selected area.

The width of the greenhouse depends on the angle of inclination of the roof slope, provided that one cut sheet is used as an overlap. The height of the greenhouse is 1.5 meters. If we raise the foundation by 20 cm, then the structure will already be 1.7 meters, not taking into account the height to the ridge.

Greenhouse frame drawing made of metal profile and polycarbonate

The scheme of the inner space of the greenhouse

The location of the plants inside the greenhouse is the primary concern that must be determined before choosing the size of the structure. First, distribute the beds, their number and track width, and then determine the size of the greenhouse.

The location of the beds inside the greenhouse

It is also important to consider the location of the greenhouse relative to the sun in your area. The more light, the more solar heat the plants will receive and the less heating costs will be.

Advice! When working with polycarbonate, it is necessary to pay attention to the stiffening ribs, since the sheet can be easily bent to one side and not the other. Knowing these qualities of the material, you can build the frame correctly.

The choice of material for mounting the frame: tips for choosing

For the construction of the frame, we recommend choosing a metal profile. You can use a wooden bar, but it needs additional treatment with antiseptic and antifungal agents.

Optionally, you can take a metal corner and shaped square pipes. But this material is more expensive and requires welding.

The GKL metal profile is strong and durable, it is easy to work with it and does not need additional care and processing.

Metal profile for the frame of the greenhouse made of polycarbonate

Many people think that the profile will not be able to withstand a large layer of snow (more than 50 cm), but if you are going to grow vegetables throughout the year, then this assumes that you will regularly remove sleet from the roof, otherwise the plants will not receive sunlight.

We offer a drawing of a polycarbonate greenhouse, but everyone can, if necessary, make their own calculations and, based on them, start building a frame.

Drawing of a frame of a greenhouse from a metal profile - side view

How not to make a mistake when buying polycarbonate

When choosing a material, do not rely on the recommendations of the seller. When buying polycarbonate, be sure to take a caliper with you, with which you can measure the thickness of the sheet on site. It should be at least 4 millimeters, otherwise we do not recommend taking it, since a greenhouse made of such material will be short-lived.

Cellular polycarbonate for greenhouse 8 mm

Also, if possible, one sheet measuring 2.1x6 meters should be weighed and if its weight is less than 10 kilograms, then it is a lightweight option, which is also not suitable for the construction of a street structure. It is a cheap, lightweight, low quality polycarbonate.

Calculation of the amount of material and tools for work

To assemble a metal frame, we need:

  • The metal profile is 50x40 mm. We need two types of profile: rack-mount "PS" and guide "PN". The quantity is calculated based on the size of the greenhouse.

Since the guide metal profile is somewhat wider than the rack-mount profile, when they are connected, a fairly dense frame body will be obtained. Horizontal construction details are made from PN profile.

As shown in the drawing, great attention is paid to the stiffening ribs when constructing the frame, therefore there are many elements of a triangular shape. Experts know that this means that the greenhouse will be strong and stable.

  • Self-tapping screws or rivets can be used as fasteners. Self-tapping screws are recommended if in the future you want to disassemble the greenhouse or move it to another place. To fasten the frame, we take self-tapping screws - 4.2x16 with a round flat head.
  • For the foundation, we need brick, cement, sand and fine gravel. For waterproofing - roofing material.

Instruments:

  • Electric screwdriver;
  • Special scissors for profile cutting;
  • Roulette 10 meters;
  • Building level.

DIY step-by-step instructions for building a greenhouse with a brick foundation

  1. Foundation device. In order for the greenhouse to serve for more than a dozen years, the brick foundation must be arranged correctly.
  2. We start by filling the pillow and for this we mark the place where the greenhouse will be located. We dig a trench, removing the top layer of soil (about 20-25 cm), fill it with a layer of fine gravel and tamp it well so that the layer turns out to be at least 5 cm. Thus, we will protect the foundation from heaving of the soil.

    Marking the place for the foundation

  3. We make a concrete mortar from cement, well-washed sand and gravel in the proportion: 1: 3: 5. The gravel fraction should be 10–50 mm. Pour the dug trench with the prepared concrete mixture to create a pillow. After 2 weeks, it will be possible to lay the foundation itself.

    Brick foundation with pillow

  4. Before laying the foundation, it is necessary to make waterproofing of roofing material or bitumen on the pillow, since the brick will collapse under the influence of moisture.

    Greenhouse foundation waterproofing

  5. When laying brickwork, it is necessary to immediately install all the necessary fixing elements for the greenhouse in the right places. These can be metal corners, fittings or other fasteners for the frame.
  6. We lay the brick with bandaging, filling the entire space between it with a solution, in order to avoid future heat loss and the penetration of cold air into the greenhouse. For a standard greenhouse, two or three rows of bricks will suffice.

    Bricklaying with bandaging

  7. Assembling the frame. We cut the profile of the required length and, using self-tapping screws or rivets, we assemble the first part of the structure, as shown in the drawing.

    We collect part of the greenhouse frame

  8. We make control measurements and if they are accurate, then we cut the rest of the profile into the same elements.

    Installing the front of the frame

  9. We collect all parts of the frame on a flat horizontal surface so that there are no distortions and deformation of the structure. When all the elements are ready, we collect them into a single whole.

    Installing the greenhouse frame on the foundation

  10. Fastening polycarbonate sheets. There are several ways to attach polycarbonate to the greenhouse frame. Which one to choose is up to you, and we will consider all of them.

    Fastening for polycarbonate butt

  11. Fastening with overlays. On the frame on top of the greenhouse structure, in the places where the sheets fit, we put rubber strips, and on them the polycarbonate itself.
  12. On top of the docking place, we put metal pads and fasten them with self-tapping screws, which will pass between the adjacent sheets through the rubber gasket. As an additional sealing of the joints, we treat them with a sealant.
  13. The second method is using the H-profile. We use the H-profile, which can be detachable and one-piece. In the figure below, we see how the sheets are fastened using a split profile.

    Removable polycarbonate mount

  14. The photo shows how the one-piece fastening occurs. In both cases, it is also necessary to use rubber gaskets for greater tightness.

    Non-detachable polycarbonate mount

Tips for masters for fixing and installing sheets

If it is necessary to install a polycarbonate sheet with self-tapping screws passing through it, we recommend using thermal washers. They will help to remove the "cold" bridge between the mount and the greenhouse cover itself, and will also serve as an additional sealing element.

Thermal washer for fixing polycarbonate

The hole in the sheet must be made several millimeters larger than the self-tapping screw in order to compensate for the subsequent expansion of the material under the influence of high temperatures.

Thermal washers are also made of polycarbonate, and their service life exceeds 15 years.

Each master must determine the distance between the fasteners of the self-tapping screws independently. But do not "frequent" too much, as this can lead to premature destruction of the material.

In order to prevent water from getting inside the polycarbonate honeycomb during the operation of the greenhouse, it is necessary to isolate the side edges of the cut well during installation.

Insulation of the cut of the side faces of polycarbonate

It is best to insert a P-profile into the sheet or lay the sheets with an overlap, and then glue the sections with special tape.

Scotch tape for sealing polycarbonate cut

It is recommended to build a greenhouse at the end of November or at the beginning of March, since at this time there are practically no plants on the site, and there is a temperature outside, which is necessary for laying polycarbonate (from +10 to + 12 ° C). If the air temperature is too high during the laying of polycarbonate sheets, then during a cold snap, the material will decrease, and large gaps will appear between the joints. Also, at too low temperatures, it is not worth working with polycarbonate, since with the arrival of heat, the sheets will expand and can significantly deform.

Video: How to build a structure part 1

Video: How to build a structure part 2

Video: How to build a structure part 3

A polycarbonate greenhouse with a metal frame will serve you for many years. For 365 days a year, you can plant your favorite vegetables, berries and even fruits and enjoy fresh salads and compotes on cold winter days. Having made a stationary greenhouse with your own hands, you will be sure of its strength and reliability, in contrast to finished factory products, which sometimes do not meet the requirements of summer residents and do not meet their expectations.


Do-it-yourself greenhouse for cucumbers: ideas for ready-made designs with photos

We will send the material to you by e-mail

Not every region can boast of suitable conditions for growing cucumbers outdoors from early spring. The middle strip of Russia has an excellent chance to crunch fresh fragrant cucumbers long before the hot summer days. To do this, you just need to build a greenhouse for cucumbers with your own hands. Photos will help you decide on the choice of arrangement, and the advice of today's review by the HomeMyHome.ru editors will help you avoid common mistakes in working on a building.

It can be a miniature building in the form of a greenhouse, where only a few green bushes will fit.

Or a full-fledged greenhouse, where you can grow not only crispy cucumbers, but also other crops


Greenhouse Bread box: design features

The frame of the greenhouse The bread box is a structure consisting of three parts: the right and left halves and the foundation. Adjustment of the microclimate inside is carried out by raising the side flaps through the use of hinge elements. You can make or buy yourself greenhouse bread box, in which one or both parts will open at once.

Flap sides of the greenhouse allow easy access to plants

The most common use of designs in which the full opening of one part upwards is provided. For this, the hinges are installed on the lower frame of one of the sides. To be able to fix the frame in the desired position, use a wooden beam, on the end cut of which cuts are made.

This model got its name due to the similarity of the mechanism of operation with a regular bread bin, the semicircular lid of which rises. The pivot axis of the upper part is located at the end part of the vertical pipe. In this case, the sidewalls are tightly closed. In order to open the greenhouse, the turning part is lifted up.

It is easy to make a greenhouse-bread bin with your own hands or purchase a ready-made structure

Profiled metal or hollow polyethylene pipes are used as a material for the manufacture of the frame, and polycarbonate or film is used as a covering material. In case of wear or mechanical damage to the coating, you can easily replace it in whole or in part.

Advantages and disadvantages of the greenhouse Khlebnitsa: user reviews

Many gardeners prefer design greenhouse breadbasket , since it has a number of positive characteristics that determine the convenience of its installation and use. Consider what positive aspects of the operation of the Khlebnitsa greenhouse are found in user reviews:

  • self-fabrication of the frame using ready-made diagrams and drawings is available even for a beginner
  • simple assembly and installation in case of buying a ready-made greenhouse
  • the ability to replace individual parts of the covering material increases the life of the greenhouse
  • this design is suitable for growing almost any crop. The only exceptions are climbing plants.
  • the greenhouse is lightweight
  • affordable cost.

Greenhouse Bread box is easy to install on the site and is inexpensive

At the same time, this option has some disadvantages that you should know about and take into account before making or buying such a greenhouse:

  • for proper operation of the hinges, it is required to regularly inspect and lubricate them periodically
  • over time, you may encounter a squeak or jamming of the sash during the opening process
  • strong wind can cause the greenhouse to move if one of the doors is open
  • installing a large greenhouse will require the efforts of 2-3 people, since it will not be possible to cope with this on your own.

Mini-greenhouse Bread box can be installed directly into the ground without preliminary preparation


How to build a winter greenhouse with your own hands: tips from the masters

Winter greenhouses are not just a place to grow vegetables, berries or flowers.

This is the very milestone in the personal history of any home gardener, after which one can deservedly consider oneself not just an amateur gardener, but a gardener with a quality mark.

However, construction is by no means an easy task, requiring a capital approach, certain skills and careful preparation. Therefore, we have prepared two interesting projects for you to help you as much as possible in this difficult, but very interesting business.

Video tour of the winter garden with aquaponics ↑

Determining the type of building ↑

Without any exaggeration, we can say the following - today there are so many different options for building a winter building for growing crops that for a detailed acquaintance with each of them, one should write a separate book or, at least, a brochure. As a result, we will not test your patience with opuses from the classical typology, but simply pay attention to the main types of differences between them.

Greenhouse buildings for the cold period differ in the following parameters.

They can grow not only traditional garden crops, flowers, mushrooms (champignons, oyster mushrooms, etc.), exotic fruits and citrus fruits. The whole further process of its construction, internal arrangement depends on what exactly you are going to cultivate.

Household construction - warm and reliable

By location relative to ground level

Heated greenhouse structures are usually divided into three types: buried in the ground, built on the surface of the ground, equipped on the top floor of an existing building (garage, shed, house).

By architectural solution

There are many options - one, two or three-slope, horizontal, arched, combined, wall-mounted. The choice depends on your taste, financial capabilities, and the size of the future structure.

By type of building materials

Buildings are conventionally divided into brick, wood, with a metal or PVC frame, glazed or with a polycarbonate coating, etc. In addition, combined designs are often found.

Capital structure with a brick base

There are solar greenhouses with technical heating (water, gas, stove, electric), biofuel buildings

By the method of planting

They can be planted in a garden bed or in special containers installed on racks.

Choosing a place ↑

There are three main factors to consider when choosing a location. First, the light mode. The greenhouse should receive the maximum amount of sunlight in winter. Therefore, the building is best oriented along the length from west to east. This is especially important for solar greenhouses.

Secondly, it is necessary to take into account the direction of the "dominant" winds. If gusty cold winds are not uncommon, be sure to consider wind protection. With the right approach, you will significantly save on heating.

Thirdly, position the structure in such a way that the passage to it is wide enough, optimally convenient. This will make it easier for you to build the greenhouse itself, and the subsequent operation.

We are building a gable deepened brick greenhouse

Diagram of a gable building

Now that we are already sufficiently armed with the necessary knowledge, we can get down to business. The greenhouse structure built according to this project is versatile.

This building is perfect for both central Russia and regions with a more severe climate. Here you can grow not only garden crops, but also some garden crops. This type of construction will certainly be expensive.

But believe me, it's worth it. Such structures are durable, convenient and economical.

The building consists of two rooms: a working vestibule and a greenhouse. A heating boiler, a control unit for automated processes (watering, ventilation, lighting) are installed in the vestibule. This room should have a length of at least 1.5 m (optimally from 2 to 2.5 m).

Among other things, the vestibule is used for the preparation of earth mixtures, storage of equipment. The walls of the vestibule are made of bricks. Styrofoam or mineral wool is suitable as thermal insulation. The roof of the vestibule is covered with an opaque material (roofing paper, roofing iron, corrugated board, etc.).

The partition between the vestibule and the greenhouse can be capital (of course, with a door) or made of a plastic or metal-plastic profile with double-glazed windows.

On dense natural soils, the strip foundation is poured to a depth of 45-50 cm.

For the construction of solid walls in this project, one brick masonry is used (wall thickness 25 cm). Window openings for the installation of greenhouse frames should be located 50-60 centimeters above ground level. The width of the gaps between the windows is approximately 50 or 75 cm (two or three bricks). Thanks to this, the plants will receive additional natural light.

Winter construction device diagram

Greenhouse frames should be equipped with transoms for ventilation. An alternative option is to equip the frames with supply ventilation valves.

The gable roof shape will provide free drainage of atmospheric waters. The angle of inclination of the roof planes is 20-25 °. The lower strapping beams (2 pcs.) Are laid along the side walls on roofing felt. The ridge bar is attached to the strapping using paired rafters.

Recommended roofing materials:

  • harness and ridge - timber (section 120x150 mm.)
  • rafters - timber (section 70x100 mm.)

For light-penetrating roofing, double glass is traditionally used, with a thickness of at least 4 mm. The roof is glazed along spros (40x75mm.) With gutters for condensate drainage.

But today, more and more often, polycarbonate honeycombs are used to cover the roof of winter greenhouses. This material has a number of clear advantages over conventional glass.

A winter polycarbonate greenhouse will serve you faithfully for at least 12 - 15 years.

Polycarbonate capital structure

To protect the walls from water inflow, a galvanized profile canopy is installed. The visor should recede from the plane of the wall by 6-8 cm. On the inside of the visor, a drainage chute is laid to collect and remove condensate coming from the grooves of the cable ties.

Choosing the type of heating ↑

Before building, you also need to decide on heating. The choice of heating depends on the usable area of ​​your greenhouse. For small rooms with an area of ​​no more than 15-20 m², stove heating is quite suitable. For more extensive land tenure forms, we recommend paying attention to three possible options:

  • water heating
  • electric heating
  • heating with biofuel.
  1. The water heating system includes a water heating boiler, heating pipes, and an expansion tank. Depending on whether you are planting plants in beds or in containers, the pipes are located either directly under the soil (laying depth 40 cm) or under the shelving with containers.

    Water heating organization diagram

  2. Electric heating can also be of three types:
    • cable
    • Greenhouse heating with fan heaters
    • IR heating.

    Cable heating of a polycarbonate greenhouse in winter is very similar to a "warm floor" system.

    A system consisting of special heating cables is placed at the bottom of a shallow pit, after which a layer of sand is laid on top, and then a layer of fertile soil. Air electric heating is carried out using special fan heaters.

    Do-it-yourself infrared heating is provided by infrared heating devices (UFO type), which are placed under the ceiling (see video).

  3. Heating with biofuel is the most economical type of heating. The soil and air are warmed up due to the intense heat release during the decomposition of organic waste. As an example, we present data on the efficiency of some common types of biofuels.
    • Horse manure - provides a temperature of 33-38 ° C (70-90 days).
    • Cow dung - up to 20 ° C (100 days)
    • Overripe bark - up to 25 ° С (120 days)
    • Sawdust - up to 20 ° С (14 days)
    • Straw - up to 45 ° C (10 days)

Biofuels are placed directly under the fertile soil layer. For proper heating of organic matter, it is important to ensure good aeration (air access), maintaining the required level of air humidity (65-70%).

How to make an economical version of a greenhouse for winter

If finances do not allow you to build a capital greenhouse, do not despair. With proper ingenuity, you can achieve an excellent result with minimal cash costs. We invite you to see for yourself. How simple and inexpensive it is to build a winter greenhouse with your own hands, the video from the "Four hundred parts" program will tell:

We hope that the above recommendations on how to build a greenhouse will be useful to you and you will no longer have to buy fresh cucumbers in winter.


Selection of pipes for construction

When choosing polypropylene pipes, you should know the markings indicating the conditions for using the material.

Single-layer polypropylene pipes are made with the following markings:

  • РРВ - pipes designated by such symbols are intended for plumbing systems with cold water and ventilation shafts
  • PPR - pipes with this marking can be used for both hot and cold water
  • РРН - for use in industrial reservoirs, as well as for cold water supply
  • РРS is the most versatile option. This type of pipe has a high temperature resistance.

For the manufacture of a greenhouse, it is better to use pipes with the PPS marking.

If, when choosing polypropylene pipes, focus on the strength of the material, it is better to focus on multilayer pipes.

Fiberglass reinforcement gives the pipes extra rigidity. It should be noted that fiberglass will make the greenhouse structure heavier.... Unlike pipes reinforced with aluminum foil, this material does not need to be stripped during installation.

Compared to a pipe with an interlayer made of aluminum foil, fiberglass reinforcement increases its lifespan by a factor of three.

In order not to be mistaken when choosing pipes, it should be remembered that simple and reinforced materials have significant differences, which can be seen if you look at them in section:

  • a simple pipe has the same inner and outer structure
  • in the reinforced pipe, you can see an interlayer consisting of foil or fiberglass.

In a reinforced pipe, you can see with the naked eye a fiberglass layer, which is most often painted in a different color.

Reinforced material has its own marking:

  • fiberglass reinforced tube: PPR-FB-PPR
  • tube with foil amplifier: PPR-AL-PPR or PPR-AL-PEX.

Polypropylene pipes are produced with a diameter of 1.6 to 12.5 cm, in various shades.

When choosing pipes, you need to focus on quality manufacturers, which are the following companies:

  • Banninger
  • "Ecoplastic Fiber"
  • "About Aqua"
  • Pilsa
  • Blue ocean.

For the manufacture of a greenhouse, it is recommended to choose pipes with thick walls (from 4.2 mm), the inner diameter of which is at least 16-16.5 mm, and the outer diameter is from 25 mm.

The connecting parts of the structure must be made of high-strength thermosetting plastic, the wall thickness of which is at least 3 mm.


Calculation of materials, required tools

Based on the preliminary diagrams and drawings, you can accurately calculate the materials required for work. To do this, it is enough to calculate the number of racks, rails, and their height. If there is a lower strapping, add the required amount of material.

To connect polycarbonate sheets to each other, it is recommended to use a special H-shaped profile, which makes it possible to leave small gaps for expansion or reduction of the panel with a temperature difference... Its length is equal to the length of the connecting seams.

The profile simplifies the assembly of the greenhouse

The profile is attached directly to the support using self-tapping screws, and then polycarbonate sheets are inserted into it. It is recommended to use thermal washers to prevent deformation and prevent cold air from entering. They are equipped with a rubber seal and an insulating ring and are fixed every 30 cm.

Thermal washer eliminates the ingress of cold air

Of the tools you will need:

  • construction knife or jigsaw
  • screwdriver
  • hacksaw
  • pencil
  • cellular polycarbonate (4-6 mm thick)
  • silicone sealant
  • metal mounting profiles
  • scissors for metal
  • self-tapping screws
  • metal tube for the frame of the required length
  • garden drill.

Additional tools may be needed depending on the material from which the frame will be made.


What materials to build a greenhouse

The frames of modern greenhouses are made mainly of three materials: metal, wood or PVC pipes.

1. Metal greenhouses - Most modern metal greenhouses are made of powder coated aluminum. It is a very durable and lightweight material that requires virtually no maintenance. The frame can be painted in almost any color and thus "fit" into the design of the site. The most important thing when choosing an aluminum greenhouse is to find high-quality metal, otherwise you will have to look for funds and efforts to maintain and process it. In addition, in metal greenhouses, ventilation is often best organized and windows and doors are arranged.

2. Wooden greenhouses are also quite popular. Wooden beams are used to make structures of various shapes and sizes. This material is considered more natural than aluminum, but it also needs to be looked after more carefully - from time to time it should be treated with special compounds and repainted.


Watch the video: Greenhouse repairs. How to make polycarbonate storm proof


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